Toi&moi ABEE (TOI&MOI) is a privately held company in Greece. We at TOI&MOI aim to safeguard our customers interests by ensuring their purchase from our stores is consistent with their expectation, and to this end, we will only accept merchandise made to this TOI&MOI Quality Assurance Manuals standards. This manual must be used in conjunction with the TOI&MOI General Terms of Purchase document which covers the pre-production sample approval process, labelling, packaging, etc…..relative to the order at hand. The Suppliers willing to accept the challenges of working to these standards will reap the benefits, as by getting things right the first time, the high cost of repair or rework will be eliminated and an ongoing relationship with TOI&MOI will be ensured, possibly as one of our ‘preferred Suppliers”. In order to evaluate and create an objective Supplier order of merit , a Seasonal “Supplier Score Card” is being developed in our computer system, recording collective quality scores and ‘fill ratios’ achieved on bulk receipts against orders given. These results will be published to Suppliers in order to motivate decisions taken in terms of forward orders to be placed. Thank You TOI&MOI Management.
2.1 Purpose of the Document
The purpose of this document is to define the Qualitative conditions involved with the supply of products and services to the Toi&moi, in line with the Terms of Trade. The standards conditions detailed here are mandatory, and binding. TOI&MOI will assume that Suppliers agree to abide by these terms and conditions unless specifically agreed otherwise in writing with TOI&MOI. Suppliers and Agents understand that failure to meet these terms and conditions may result in payment delays, cancellation of purchase orders or financial penalties. TOI&MOI reserve the right to update this document, where necessary to reflect current and planned working practices. The latest dated version of this document can be found on the TOI&MOI website http://www.toi&moi.com A signed acknowledgement by each Supplier will be kept on file at TOI&MOI Headquarters in Athens. In the event of changes being made, the onus is on TOI&MOI to ensure new versions are signed for by each Supplier.
ContractRefers to the contract for the purchase of products as deemed when the Supplier receives a TOI&MOI authorized Purchase order
DeliveryRefers to the delivery of goods by the supplier to TOI&MOI or authorized third party.
Purchase OrderThe Purchase Order provided by TOI&MOI for the purchase of product and services.
SupplierRefers to either the manufacturer/wholesaler of the products or authorized buying agents.
2.2 Contact Details
TOI&MOI Athens Distribution Centre (Logistics)
Pindou 58 & Medeas
14342 N. Philadelfeia
F +30 210 2593702
2.3 Legislation and safety standards
All European Union based Suppliers are to ensure they comply with the law of the land, including labour laws, human rights, health and safety, customs and excise, and inland revenue. Suppliers outside European Union need ensure they comply with the world trade organizations policies covering labour laws, human rights, health and safety, customs and excise and inland revenue. TOI&MOI may at their discretion, carry out factory audits on sight in this regard.
2.4 Environmental Code of Practice, Dyeing, Printing and Finishing.
We in TOI&MOI take our responsibilities to the environment seriously. Together with our industry partners we seek to achieve sustainable ongoing improvements in this area, and to this end we therefore encourage you our Supplier, to be proactive in identifying potential problems in this regard and developing commercial viable solutions to them. Producers of textile and/or leather articles should be aware that their products do not carry any of the EU prohibited azo dyes.
3.1 General Information
Care labels provide information to consumers on how to correctly take care of a textile product.
Care instruction labelling is mandatory on all apparel items (refer exempt list section 3.3) and must be included for the following processes on all Care Instruction labels.
Bleaching; (not mandatory)
It is the Suppliers’ responsibility to ensure that all apparel products comply with the following standards and regulations:
European Union and International Standards Organisation ISO 3758:2005 Below are the care label instructions and the correct icons that must be used for care labelling.
Fibre content labelling
European Parliament and Council Directive 96/74/EC of 16 December 1996 on textile names and Directive 2008/121/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 14 January 2009 on textile names.
Country of origin labelling
COMMISSION REGULATION (EEC) No 2454/93 of 2 July 1993 laying down provisions for the implementation of Council Regulation (EEC) No 2913/92 establishing the Community Customs Code.
3.2 Care Suitability
Under-claiming or ‘Low Labelling’ is occurring, for example, when phrases such as ‘Dry Clean Only’ are being used when washing is also a suitable care treatment. Consumers then lose confidence in labels and may attempt to wash articles that legitimately need to be dry cleaned only. With leather products in particular, if the prohibitive instructions ‘Do Not Wash’ and ‘Do Not Dry Clean’ are used together, the manufacturer/retailer will need to verify that this is the case and another cleaning option must be given. For made-up articles the care instructions shall take into account particularly vulnerable components such as trims, unless their removal is advised with the care instruction. For example:
Flower must be removed
3.3 Goods Exempt from Care Instructions Labelling Requirements
Second hand goods: All second hand goods are exempt Haberdashery: Ornaments, artificial flowers, sewing and embroidery threads and all other small items of haberdashery used in the making of clothing and textile products where instructions are not needed to ensure that the clothing or textile product is not damaged during cleaning maintenance. Miscellaneous Goods: Cords. Umbrellas and parasols, shoelaces, woven labels, flex coverings, goods manufactured for sporting purpose (including gloves but excluding all other apparel), articles intended for one use only.
3.4 How fibre content should be stated on a label
Textile Products – Fibre Content Labelling does not require fibres of less than 5% to be indicated on the label. The fibre should be included if less than 5% when the performance of the product or the visibility of the fibre is evident, e.g. metallic thread or Elastane. If there are spliced panels or segments that form an integral part of the garment then the fibre content for the panel/lining etc must be stated on the label. The words ALL or PURE are not acceptable on fibre content labels, e.g. ‘all cotton’, or ‘pure cotton. For products containing wool refer to Section 3.4.1. It is not mandatory to state the percentage of fibre combinations when there is no wool fibre content in the product.
3.4.1 Products containing Wool
Products with a fibre content that includes wool must state the percentage of wool and any percentage variation of any other fibre. The fibre content listing must be in descending order of dominance with the generic name of each fibre preceded by its (%) e.g. 70% Wool - 20% Nylon - 10% Elastane.
3.4.2. Items that are lined or padded
Lined or padded garments require each component to be listed.
Labelling of textile products containing fibre fillings
Shell: 70% Cotton – 30% Polyester
Lining: 100% Nylon
Filling: 100% Cotton
Trim: 100% Polyester
3.4.3 Labelling of textile products containing fibre linings and components
Shell: 98% Nylon - 2% Elastane
Lining: 96% Nylon – 4% Elastane
Cups: 50% Polyester – 50% Cotton
3.4.4 Product containing Backing or Coatings on fabric
The correct backing / coating name must be mentioned separately from the fibre content on apparel that has a coating or backing.
Coating: 100% Polyurethane
3.4.5. Product with lace trims
The base fabric and lace trim must be listed separately.
98% Nylon - 2% Elastane
Lace: 98% Polyester – 2% Elastane
When there are assorted trims on items and the fibre content does not include trims, the label must state ‘Exclusive of Trims’.
Padding must be listed separately and fibre content must always be stated from the highest to the lowest in the order of dominance.
98% Nylon - 2% Elastane
Exclusive of trims
Product with panels of different fibres will need to list the panels separately.
98% Nylon - 2% Elastane
Panels: 98% Cotton – 2% Elastane
QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCESS
4.1 The Toi&moi Tech Pack
This document consists of a size chart, detailed measurements graded by size, artwork of the style and generic details of fabric type, accessories, stitching and construction. The Toi&moi “how to measure” pointers/indicators will be on the art/photo/sketch on each Tech Pack. Suppliers are to take heed of ‘from which point to which point’ the measurement applies, and measure the garment accordingly. (If pointers are in a straight line – this indicates a direct measurement. If the pointers are “curved” this means the measurement is on the curve and must be measured accordingly). Garments are calculated for costing and made according to the Tech Pack. Tech Packs are created to provide consistency across Suppliers of fit in particular across Gender, Life-stages and Life-styles. At all times a detailed Toi&moi Specification Sheet will be given, particularly where there is no actual sample for the Supplier to proceed against/copy. In some instances, where a “Tech Pack” has been issued and an original sample is available, the instruction will be to copy the detail of the original sample. The finer detail within the garment will need be created by the Supplier as a detailed “Specification Sheet” – and this should accompany the first fit sample sent to the TOI&MOI QA division, for approval. The reason for a Supplier creating this, could be to define the position and shape of a pocket, or placement print, or the positioning of a seam or gathering – which hasn’t been detailed in the original “Tech Pack”.
4.2 Suppliers own Specifications
Suppliers need use the Toi&moi Tech Pack forms when compiling their own style specifications, when being used under Toi&moi’s private labels. A copy of the Supplier’s specification must accompany any garments sent to QA for approval. The Supplier must fill in their samples measurements of the actual sample versus the spec prior to sending to Toi&moi QA for approval.
The measurement tolerance to Tech Pack or Specification will be stipulated on the “Tech Pack or Specification Sheet”. A general rule of thumb will be a 1cm tolerance either way, unless otherwise stipulated.
4.4 Sample approval process
PROTO (COLLECTION) SAMPLE: Two collection samples must be submitted to Toi&moi Buying Dept in the original fabric and colour and if possible with the correct trims, buttons, zippers etc in size S (small) or SM (small). Samples must be labelled “PROTO SAMPLE” with details of style number and should state all relevant information concerning prices, weight and composition. Ordering of collection samples by Toi&moi does not imply that Toi&moi automatically accepts to make out an order to the Supplier.
FIRST FIT SAMPLE (FF SAMPLE): One fit sample in the requested size must be submitted to Toi&moi Quality Assurance department within two weeks of receiving the original order. This sample does not have to be in bulk fabric or colour but must be made-up in similar type/quality fabric. A copy of the specification sheet must be enclosed with each sample with Supplier’s QA’s comments/measurements recorded on it. Samples must be clearly labelled ‘FIT SAMPLE’, with details of the Toi&moi order number and style number.
SALESMAN/PROMOTIONAL SAMPLES: Three samples in each colourway, in the correct fabric, trims etc in size S (small) or S-M (small) (where applicable), must be received by our Buying Dept in Athens, and must be complete and identical to production. In some cases and prior to agreement between Toi&moi and the Supplier, the S (Small) size sent as PP SAMPLE, can also be used as SALESMAN/PROMOTIONAL SAMPLES so the requested SALESMAN SAMPLES can be only two.
In the case of accessories the SALESMAN SAMPLES number of pieces might be higher (in case of bracelets for example, 5 pieces per colour are requested).
In the case of jeans the SALESMAN SAMPLES must be in size 27.
For shoes, Toi&moi requests three SALESMAN pairs in size 37 and two in size 40, (in this case, requests can also vary depending on the needs).
NB. SAMPLES must be clearly labelled “SALESMAN/PROMOTIONAL SAMPLE” and are needed in dates to be specified and agreed before shipment, since these are used for the actual photographic shoot.
PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES (PP SAMPLES): One sample in each colourway, in the correct fabric, trims etc as well as size requested, must be received by our QA Dept in Athens, and must be appraised and approved in writing via email back to the Supplier, before production may start. Any supplier who starts production without this emailed approval does so at their own risk, and TOI&MOI may not be held liable for this stock. All PP SAMPLES must be complete and identical to production (including labelling, packaging and ticketing). A copy of the specification sheet and fabric test report must be enclosed with each sample with supplier’s QA comments/measurements recorded on it. Samples must be clearly labelled ‘PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE’, with details of our order number and style number.
NB. Pre-Production samples are needed at least 4 weeks before shipment.
Orders placed are subject to the Quality Assurance division appraising and approving the above samples. Suppliers should hold in their factory, identical copies of both the FIRST FIT & PRE-PRODUCTION samples for their own reference. The onus is on the Supplier to ensure the sample approved is the one they are working to in production.
4.5 Fabric tests
The quality of all fabrics used in supplying Toi&moi plus must be of a commercially acceptable standard with tolerances on shrinkage, weight, colour match, colour fastness, light fastness, spirality, pilling etc all conforming to the standards set out in the standard tables in this manual below. Unless otherwise stated, the following tests should be conducted on fabrics as follows:
Weight or count.
Spirality on knits.
Seam slippage on wovens.
Anything the Supplier deems to be ‘regular’ on its quality of fabric should be included.
Unless otherwise stated, original copies of fabric and trim test reports are necessary on any bulk orders (over 1500 pieces). These test reports should be supplied with the PRE-PRODUCTION samples when sent for approval. In the event of a fabric test not being available from the mill, the Supplier need confirm in writing the performance of the fabric is up to standard. This confirmation need be submitted with the Pre-production sample to QA. Prints, embroideries and other embellishments need also comply with the above as well as threads, ribbons and other trims.
Colour matching – Suppliers are responsible to ensure all colours comply with the master swatch issued, within the agreed tolerance per the TOI&MOI QA manual. The ‘master swatch’ is the colour the buyer signed off in lab dip form. TOI&MOI reserves the right to cancel any orders where styles/ colours don’t comply.
4.6 Lab dips and strike offs
Lab dips, print strike offs and embellishment samples are to be sent to the buyer and/or Quality Assurance department, for approval before Bulk is started. Once approved, these become the standard (Master) for bulk production. Important all colour ratings are done in a light box using the D65 lamp option.
4.7 Bulk Audit in the Toi&moi Distribution Centre
This will take place on receipt of bulk merchandise in the Distribution centre in Athens. Supplier’s merchandise that is problematic will be rejected at the point of receipt in the TOI&MOI DC, and the Supplier shall be immediately notified with an official form stating all relevant issues justifying the rejection. Suppliers will need to collect rejected orders within an agreed timeframe given by the DC, after which demurrage will be incurred by the Supplier. This period is normally 72 hours unless otherwise agreed.
4.8 Re-Processing of merchandise rejected – local processing house.
In the event of bulk merchandise being rejected at the DC, in agreement with the Supplier and TOI&MOI, if the merchandise is recoverable, a local processing house is available and can be an alternative to a cancellation of an order. The cost of the re-processing will be for the Suppliers account, if it is deemed the Supplier is at fault.
GARMENT AND FABRIC STANDARDS AND TEST REQUIREMENTS
This Fabric Testing Matrix shows for each fabric type the tests that are required for Toi&moi QA Approval.
Fibre content ConfirmationAll fabrics
Fabric Weight – to specificationAll fabrics
Construction -confirmedAll fabrics
Dimensional StabilityAll fabrics
SpiralityN/AAll natural fibre single knits
Dimensional StabilityAll fabrics
Print DurabilityAll placement prints/transfers/flocking etc
Colourfastness to washing & rubbingAll coloured fabrics
5.1 Test Methods and Standards – Base Fabrics (Stability and Properties)
The table below shows the required test methods and the standards that must be met within each category.
PROPERTYAS TEST METHODSTANDARDS WOVENS, KNITS and all Fabric with Elastane
Fibre ContentAS2001.7-2005+/- 3%
Fabric Weight Mass unit areaAS2001.2.13-1987- 5% / + 10%
Dimensional StabilityAS2001.5.4-2005 x 3+/- 5%
Pilling Knitted fabric only ( i.e. Fleece / Polar Fleece FlanneletteISO 12495 – part 1 I.C.I. Pillbox 14400 revolutions 1 x wash as per care Before: Martindale ISO 12945-1 x 2000 cycles3-4 Low Pill 4 Visual assessment against original Minimum rating - 3
Spirality/ SkewingThe degree of after washing spiraling is determined by the average amount of deviation from right angles of the four corners of the square marked before washing.STANDARD
Knits -Before washing Max 5 degrees. After washing Max 3 degrees Woven fabrics – Max 3 degrees skew at any point across the width NOTE: Product with less than 50cm in length i.e. napkins can have a higher spirality than products longer than i.e. + 75cm in length. A marginal or acceptable degree of spirality depends on the end use of the fabric. Results can be discussed with Toi&moi QA.
5.2 List of fabric standards and the tests thereof
TEST DESCRIPTIONTEST METHODREQUIREMENT
Corduroy Denim Flannelette Pigment Dyed or Pigment printedALL
Medium and Light Colour Fluorescent ColourALL
Contrast Colour within a garment
4 2/34 3/44 3/44 4
3-4 colour change, 3 staining, 4 cross stainingAll fabrics 4-5 colour change, 4 staining, 4-5 cross staining
PERSPIRATIONISO105.E04All fabrics: 4 colour change, 3-4 staining, 4-5 cross staining.
4 colour, 3-4 staining and 3-4 cross stainingAll fabrics: 4 colour change, 3-4 staining, 4-5 cross staining
3/4 2/34 34 3/44 3/4
3 colour fastness, 2-3 stainingAll fabrics: 3-4 colour change, 3-4 staining
3-4 (grey scale rating)3-4 (grey scale rating)All fabrics: 4-5 (grey scale rating)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHINGAS2001.5.4Line dry +/-5% Tumble dry +/-7%
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRY-CLEANINGAS2001.5.7+/-3%
PILLINGBS5811:1986Dress, skirt, pants: 4min after 18000 revs. Tops: 3-4 min after 10000 revs.
TEAR STRENGTHASTM D1424: 1981750kg.
BURSTING STRENGTHBS4768-972Normal fit 250kNm2; Loose fit 200kNm2.
TENSILE STRENGTHASTM D1682: 1975135N.
SEAM SLIPPAGEAS2001.2.22Max 6mms.
SEAM STRENGTHASTM D1683:1983115N
APPEARANCE AFTER WASHBSEN:26330No significant change
PRINT DURABILITYWash 3 times as per the care instructions and assess for lifting, peeling and cracking, loss of colour and legibility. Visual assessment against original.
IRONING RESISTANCE OF PRINTNo mark off of print at ironing
ACCELERATOR PILE LOSSBS 5811:1997Pile fabrics: 16% maximum pile loss & visual assessment, negligible.
ZIPSBS3084-2006Strength of puller 200N, Strength of top-stop 90N, Strength of open-end fastener box 90N, Resistance to redprocation 500cycles, lateral strength of fastener 250N, lateral strength of top end attachment 90N, Strength of slider locking device 25N, open end fastener and single strength slider retention 70N. Zip strength, resistance to twist of puller >0.4N, opening ability <7.0N.
STUD, BUTTONS, BOWS & EYELETSASTM D4846-1996 ASTM PS79-1996 Intertek In-house method IHTM012
PULL FORCE TESTING OF MALE AND FEMALE STUDSSTANDARD
Attachment strength of stud / button • Female stud • Male stud •Eyelets, Buttons & BowsAll Min. 8.00Kgpf
We at Toi&moi note that while all the above tests are scientifically achievable, there will be instances when for a particular reason things didn’t work out the way they should have. Important in this relationship is to communicate any shortfalls with the Buying and Quality Assurance departments – rather be up front, and come to an agreement, than be caught out with sub-standard merchandise being shipped to our stores. After all – we owe it to our customers.